Oliver is a renowned orator, travelling the world exalting the virtues of the marriage of good food and good beer with unnerving ease. While Lovatt leans on the more introverted side, they share, among other things, a perfectionist attitude to their brewing craft. A considerable space in Thornbridge HQ has been turned into the barrel store and bottling plant for Project Serpent, with more than a hundred barrels lining the wall.
“We looked at all the gravities of each barrel, we tasted every one and mapped out the gravity of them, so we could put together blends, exactly the same as you would have with a cuvee with wine,” explains Oliver. He points to a map of the barrels, which have a small range of around one plato.
“We set ranges, and by doing that we look at the size of the tank and set a cuvee. The flavours are pretty even across all, but we want the blend to be set across them so we can randomise them rather than having to go and taste each individually and mentally put together the flavour notes to ensure they work with each other.”
He adds: “You are setting a blend and want consistency across all bottles. Lots of people are
into brett, they are into sours but bringing these things into a nice balance, and also a natural thing that springs out of the environment for me is more interesting. What I love here is the balance of a little acidity, ripe freshness, the barrel comes together and a nice pop of fruit.
“You can just imagine a nice piece of pork in front of you with a glass of this, some gorgonzola sauce and boom, you would lose your mind!”.
Pointing to one barrel that has a heart next to me, I ask of its significance. “Well, that one had a ‘Boy that is really nice’ effect on me, maybe that will make it as some director’s cut!” he enthuses.
Oliver is keen to point out that this beer is a true collaboration.
“It is a perfect blend as neither Brooklyn or Thornbridge could have done this without the other. Many collaborations are something of a photo opportunity, but Rob and I have known each other for years, and I know the family, so we are really part of each other’s families in that sense,” he explains.
“For me, we were the first brewery in the world to do collaborations, back in 1996 with Brakespear. Brooklyn Bridge Bitter and from there, we had done around eight before another brewery had done one. And what’s my favourite? So far, this one!”
He adds: “Probably the most well-known one we have done was with Schneider, which was called ‘Schneider & Brooklyner Hopfen-Weisse’ in the US but in the UK and elsewhere but in the US was called Brooklyner-Schneider Hopfen-Weisse, where both breweries chose hops for each version so again, it was a true collaboration. We don’t just do them with anybody, but with our friends.
“Yes this collaboration is a risk and it could have turned out like vinegar but I’m liking the balance we are getting, and when this lands on the table with food, it will be able to do stuff that no other beer that I’ve had anyway, has done before. The food pairing was one of those things that always sticks in my mind, and it’s the same with here, and it’s the same with our Ghost bottles in the US. It’s a special occasion beer, it’s handled with care and it’s something truly special.”