Looking at Ontario craft beer quality, one beer at a time

Not everyone has a job where they get to buy more than 1,000 cans of beer in a few short weeks. However, that was the task that Niagara College, in partnership with the Ontario Craft Brewers, had this summer. Why? It’s all part of the “Ontario Craft Beer Quality Review” study conducted at Niagara College by Kelly Byer, laboratory technologist at the college’s Canadian Food & Wine Institute Innovation Centre. 

Thanks to funding from the Ontario Centres of Excellence, the CFWI Innovation Centre was able to analyze the quality attributes of close to 100 different craft beers, from more than 50 Ontario Craft Brewers members. In order to sustain the rapid growth of the industry, it is important for brewers to maintain quality to keep existing customers, and attract new ones, in hopes of increasing Ontario craft brewers’ market share.

By testing different batches of the same beer during the summer months, it was possible to see how consistent the brewers were during one of their busiest times for both production and sales. The results provided an overview of the industry and highlighted what member brewers are doing well, and where improvements can be made.

The CFWI Innovation Centre research team brought various areas of expertise to the project through its technical specialists and students.  Brewmaster program graduate, Avery Howlett, who was the Research Assistant on the project, says: “It’s exciting to see the Ontario craft brewing industry focusing on quality. This is a solid step towards Ontario becoming a leader for beer worldwide.” Howlett was also given the exciting task of returning more than 1,000 empty cans. When asked how that went his only comment was “Sticky!”

Working with Niagara College allowed the OCB to leverage the CFWI Innovation Centre’s analytical testing experience in the beer industry, as well as their relationships with OCB committee members and Brewmaster program faculty at NC’s Teaching Brewery, including Adrian Popowycz and Dr. Dirk Bendiak. 

“The OCB prides itself on the creativity and ingenuity of our members,” says Popowycz. “That being said, quality has always been a cornerstone of the OCB as an organization. We see this as a key pillar to maintaining the phenomenal growth of the craft beer industry.” 

Quality can be seen mainly as a consumer issue, but attributes like ABV, pH and lot coding can have repercussions well beyond consumer perception. ABV tolerances are federally regulated, and brewers should know if they are consistently meeting their targets. A pH of 4.5 or lower can inhibit the growth of food spoilage organisms, such as pathogenic bacteria like E. coli, and is especially important in unpasteurized beer. Lot codes are important not only for regulatory reasons, but also to help inform the consumer about the age and shelf-life of the beer. Fortunately, the majority of craft brewers are doing well in these regulated areas. 

While most of the beers tested were IPAs (not surprising, given the style’s current popularity), 26 different styles were included in the study, from amber ale to weissbier. Style-specific attributes of colour and specific gravity were assessed against the style guidelines for each beer, while bitterness units were assessed either against the beer’s label, if provided, or against style guidelines. Knowing, however, that brewers may intentionally choose not to conform to the style guidelines, consistency between their own samples was a key consideration. 

“This study represents a snapshot in time of how we are doing, with respect to maintaining quality during our members’ busiest time of the year,” notes Popowycz. “Given the intense pressure on production and scheduling during the summer months, it is good to see the majority of members are very consistent.” 

And while lab analysis results are important, the final say in quality really comes down to taste. The study was able to tap into the students in the Brewmaster and Brewery Operations Management program, who acted as the panel for the blind sensory trials. Every sample was assessed for off-flavours, as well as other attributes and overall perception. 

The results were sorted according to brewery size consisting of small (less than 5,000 hl/year), medium (5,000-20,000 hl/year) and large breweries (greater than 20,000 hl/year). Instituting quality systems, even in small breweries, can pay off in the long run. Many quality practices, such as tasting panels and regular equipment calibration and maintenance, can be instituted without a large investment in either time or money. A good quality program may be even more important during demanding times such as the summer.

The good news? Quality standards are high across the board, and Ontario craft brewers can pride themselves on producing high-quality, great-tasting beer. The vast majority of beers scored well in all areas, and most brewers were extremely consistent despite the challenge of a hectic summer schedule. 

The not so good news? Actually, it’s more good news. The CFWI Innovation Centre has shared the results from the “Ontario Craft Beer Quality Review” study with the OCB. Naturally, there will be areas to improve upon, and the OCB has committed itself to help. Craft breweries develop a reputation based on the products they make, therefore being known for consistently producing high-quality beers is something for which craft breweries should strive. 

“The OCB’s plan is to present and discuss these findings with its members to highlight the things we are doing right (so that we can keep doing them) as well as to identify practical opportunities for improvement” notes Popowycz. “Given the scope of brewery sizes within the OCB we feel that we are in a unique position to provide both tools and guidance for its members in order to achieve quality standards that would serve as a model to our industry.”

Located at the Niagara-on-the-Lake campus of Niagara College, the Canadian Food & Wine Institute Innovation Centre team offers a full suite of services to support industry innovation and commercialization of new products and processes in the food and beverage sector. From new recipe development to shelf-life testing and nutritional labelling, the CFWI Innovation Centre pairs industry partners with faculty, recent graduates and students with the right expertise and equipment to meet industry needs.

Working with expert faculty and students from several programs – including Culinary Innovation and Food Technology, Winery and Viticulture Technician, and Brewery and Brewmaster Operations Management – the Centre specializes in recipe and new product development; food and beverage regulatory assistance; laboratory services; sensory analysis and consumer testing; and nutritional labelling services.

The Centre leverages the resources of the College’s commercial brewery and hop yard; commercial winery and vineyard, and commercial kitchens, while operating a microbiology lab; chemistry lab; sensory and consumer testing labs; shelf-life and packaging lab; and related commercialization solutions to allow industry partners to be market ready.