Nearly one and half million people call Manitoba home and more than half of these inhabit it’s capital Winnipeg. But in 2018, only 12 breweries operate in a province that spans 650,000km2. It’s a figure that would bring out most good beer lovers in a cold sweat, so it’s probably best not to tell them that if you rewind five years, that brewery quota was smaller still. You’d be able to count them on one hand.

But such slim pickings was the stark reality facing Matt Tallman. Tallman was finishing his final year at the Ivey Business School, the business school of the University of Western Ontario. As his mind turned to the future, he knew he wanted to launch his own business. It was just a question of what. And where.

“The idea of moving back to Winnipeg, with its two or three breweries, wasn’t a particularly appealing prospect. Living in Ontario had opened up my eyes to everything around me. And lots of great beer,” he explains. “Spending a lot of time homebrewing during university really helped me develop that passion. So it got to the point that combining what I love with what I wanted to achieve in life made complete sense.”

Tallman knew that there was space for growth in Manitoba. The fact that brewery numbers have jumped 300% since he set out on his own journey attest to that. So he set about developing ideas, a business plan and learning what works.

“It was important to spend time travelling to other markets in North America and really try to get a feel for the landscape out there. It was key to know what was going on, what beers were being sought after and what models were being successful,” he says. “Whether that was being inspired by Hangar 24 in Redlands, California or places such as Surly Brewing in Minnesota, they all motivated me in different ways.”

Following that epiphany, it was time, in Tallman’s words, to take a step back. To look at Manitoba and formulate ideas.

“Above all else, I wanted to create an asset to the local market and something that local people could look at, and have a great experience with. Central to that, in my mind, was having a taproom on site that could bring people together,” he explains. “I wanted such an asset because it means people could come in, see how the beer is made and interact with that.

He says: “To help educate people, you need to immerse them in the process, in the production of the drink they are enjoying. Lots of people coming to breweries such as ours didn’t previously drink local, or know much about it. So it’s our responsibility to help change that.”

Tallman called on family investment to help achieve his aims. After spending years on the development of his business plan, he felt it was time to press on. But above all of the technical and logistical facets of his plan, the overarching goal was simple. To provide drinkers with beer that had quality at the forefront.

Central to this was bringing on a head brewer he trusted from the start. Thankfully for Tallman, his advert for such a position hit the right eyes at the right time.

Morgan Wielgosz graduated with a degree in the faculty of science from WLU and started her pro brewing career in Toronto with Amsterdam Brewing Co. After spending six years at the business from 2011-2017, she made the move to Winnipeg to begin my career with Trans Canada Brewing Co in March of last year.

“When I first spoke to Matt, what I saw was the desire for investment in quality-first beer. Working in Toronto for six years, you see how things change as demand increases. For me, quality is all important and you can’t jeopardise that,” she says. “So to be here from the start, to help shape this brewery, the impact it has on the local market, and to be part of a movement, was critical.”

As head brewer at Trans Canada Brewing Co, Wielgosz has created dozens of beers from Light Lagers to Rauchbier and Amarillo IPAs. She’s also brewed a 6.2% Brett Pale Ale, a beer conditioned in secondary with Brett C yeast. Something no other brewery in the province has tried. But the next step is educating the consumer on the choice now available to them.

“The challenge is trying to express that you can be progressive, innovative and approachable,” she explains. “We are trying to produce beers that are high quality and technically sound, beers that bring the consumers into our space and for them to enjoy what we’re doing, too.”

And once again, for Tallman and Wielgosz, that can be achieved by putting quality first. From the first releases of Arrow IPA and Lamp Lighter Amber Ale to everything that has come since.

“Quality is broad term that people use but rarely define,” says Wielgosz. “For us, it’s starting with the best raw materials, the best protocols and being diligent on materials across the process. You have to making sure levels are checked and specifications  are attained for each and every recipe.”

She adds: “That extends to putting your foot down when you know that something isn’t up to quality standards. There’s no point putting out an inferior product to market. If you do release that poor quality beer to market, and the consumer has a poor experience, more importantly, you’re doing wider damage to the industry that is working hard to raise standards.”

Wielgosz heads up a brewery operation capable of producing up to 12,000hl, the brewery’s beers are brewed on a 5hL R&D system for recipe innovation, and a 35hL system for its larger volume production beers.

The company also boasts a dedicated Foeder Room with 6-40hL Seguin Moreau French Oak Foeders. This is dedicated to its wild, sour and spontaneous ferment programs currently in development. As well the room holds some of its barrels for small batch releases. This room is entirely humidity and temperature controlled.

Making this happen is a team that comprises Josh Adler—Quality Assurance, Thomas Schneider—Timmy Tom’s Pizzeria Head Pizzaiolo and Jeff Wirt—Administration Leader. The team also includes Josh van den Ende—Taproom Leader, Michael Raftis—Sales and Marketing Leader, Martina Schaumleffel—Assistant Kitchen Leader, Michael Schneider—Marketing & Brand Ambassador, Frank Fiorillo—Taproom Shift Leader, Katrina Farrell—Fermentation Monitoring Technician and Cam McLean—Cellar, and the aformentioned Tallman and Wielgosz.

With that team in tow, and a growing loyal consumer base, Tallman and Trans Canada Brewing Co are understandably optimistic about the future as they approach their first birthday.

“I believe Winnipeg and Manitoba more widely can develop its own strong beer identity. You can see the excitement and support coming from the consumers and there is a lot of drive for change,” says Wielgosz. “The perception of what beer can be is changing for many people and there is a momentum behind that, too. As long as we provide a quality, strong beer portfolio, we can continue to achieve that loyalty.”

Tallman concludes: “Manitobans in general are connected to the industry and we are seeing a culture of support that comes with the ability to enjoy a quality, local product. So it’s our job to produce the best beer we are capable of and give people the best possible environment to enjoy it in. And I think we’re getting there.”